I am interested in the surfaces of breads. When we think back on the history of bread, how often is surface decoration part of one’s vision? I bought this stencil at a stationary store. This is an experiment I made when writing an article for Mother Earth News about stencilling breads. Shouldn’t we imagine stencilled…
Category: Hearth Cooking
February, 2021. Boiling ravioli — ricotta, finely minced chicken fried to the edge of crispy, lemon rind, lemon juice, fresh rosemary, fresh thyme, grated parmesan, lots of nutmeg, a hint of cayenne, and salt to taste.
For my friends, Marco and Sandra Floriani, Sardinia is like a continent. They live in the foothills of the Alps, near Trento. This was many years ago. I joined them on a ferry from the Italian mainland to Sardinia. What can I say, it is like a continent! We drove the car off the ferry…
Sardinia. 2005. Pane Carasau. This is the first baking. The dough, a yeasted dough made from semolina, is rolled out using a sheeter. The baker, a female pensionnaire. While production is in a family house, the oven in the living room, there is enough production to provide for a commercial mixer and sheeter. Note how…
Sardinian Forest-fed Pigs
Pigs fed on forest acorns roasted in front of a fire in a Sardinian restaurant, 2005. Driving to the restaurant we saw pigs on the side of the road. We stopped. I approached. The group of pigs smelled like the meat tasted.
I always find it calming. The Dutch oven before the fire. You set the embers over and under and then the magic happens. When cooking meat in the Dutch oven, I have started using a digital thermometer that works remotely — probe inside the Dutch oven connected to the digital output device. The advantage of…
I was watching a YouTube video about Medieval cooking by Lucy Worsley. She works at Hampton Court and produces a wide range of videos for BBC. In the Medieval food video, she says that the average Medieval household always had a soup going — a “pottage.” Amongst other things, the postage was made with scraps….
Atavistic reverie. The land’s fat raining into the lèchefrite. I add water, onions, carrot, garlic, etc. to the lèchefrite so that the fat won’t burn. This also creates the basis for a lovely natural sauce.
Cooking a Road-kill Raccoon
This is the first time I have skinned and butchered road kill. Yes, I was apprehensive. But the raccoon was young, small by raccoon standards, had no visible injuries from having been hit and was clearly healthy. I looked up skinning online but ended up being helped y a friend who had grown up skinning…
Like many recipes published prior to the stricter copyright laws of the twentieth century this recipe for candied angelica is found in many cookbooks. I include two version here, one from 1717 and one from 1788. They are identical but for one detail. The later recipe leaves off the option of drying the angelica before…