The following lovely video offers a classic preparation from Northern Europe. Based on my experience, I am guessing something in or near the Baltic Republics of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. For this, in addition to Gyrometra, you will need onion, potato, dill, butter, and of course, salt and pepper.

Gyromitra esculenta, often referred to in the mycological literature by the negative reference — “false morel” — shares the order Pezizales with the “true morel” — Morchella esculenta. Both, Gyromitra and Morchella esculenta were given the name “esculenta” because they were and are considered to be fabulous edibles with the proviso that today, most field guides state that gyromitra is poisonous, while only a few extol its edibilty.

In the field, gyromitra looks more like a helvella than a morel. Indeed, when the mushroom was first put into the Linnaean classification system, it was assigned the genus Helvella. Nonetheless, it is known as the “false morel.” Eaten raw, both the “true” and “false” morels are poisonous, even deadly. And yes, that “even deadly” also applies to the “true” morels. Fifty people were sickened, three hospitalized, and two diners died eating raw morel in sushi at a restaurant, Dave’s Sushi, in Bozeman, Montana, USA in Spring 2023.

The toxins in the “true morel” are primary destroyed by heat — so sautéing them makes them edible, otherwise, they are not. The toxins in Gyrometra esculenta are both volatile and water soluble. Drying seems to eliminate the toxin as does boiling. Mere heating in a pan is a less desirable way to detoxify the mushroom. The government of Finland recommends cutting into small pieces and boiling twice for five minutes. In the video included here, a Russian woman boils the cut up mushroom three times for ten minutes each boil.

Gyrometra esculenta is a prized edible in Northern Europe, typically in the Northernmost regions of Europe — Russia, Belarus, parts of German, Poland, the Baltics, and Scandinavia, but it is prized, here and there, in other parts of Europe as well. Possibly, in other parts of the world, too, but I do not know where. If you do, please leave a comment.

It is the first mushroom to grow in Europe’s far north in the Spring, thus, along with nettles and field sorrel it is a sign of lovely days to come after the cold and dark winter months.

Recipe: The standard protocol is to boil the mushroom multiple times in plentiful water. The primary toxin in the mushroom are Hydrazines. This toxin is both volatile and water soluble. Its boiling temperature is around 88C, so well below the boiling point of water, which is 100C.

The volatile toxin is potent enough that one can get sick breathing its fumes. Thus, when boiling and cooking this mushroom please be certain to do so with plentiful ventilation. In one YouTube video I watched one sees a young couple dashing out their back door to avoid breathing the fumes. My advice is not to bring panic into your kitchen. Use the ventilation hood on your stove, if you have one, or work in a kitchen with a good draft from open doors or windows. And, of course, don’t stand over the pot breaking in the fumes!

Don’t be paranoid. Millions of people love this mushroom! Also, don’t be stupid! Don’t cut corners. The Finnish health department recommends boiling twice for at least 5 minute. Folk traditions often boil for 10 minutes each time, with some traditions boiling the mushroom three times. How to choose? Start with three boils at tend minutes to develop confidence. Then, cut to two boils as per the Finnish government recommendation. I personally split the difference between the Finnish government 5 minutes and country tradition of 10 minutes to boil mine for 7.5 minutes!

Be sure there is plentiful water. This is very important. For 100g mushroom I’d use 2 liters (quarts) of water. Also, don’t start counting boiling time until the mushrooms are, indeed boiling! I you don’t cut corners then you don’t risk an unpleasant surprise. After the second boil, rinse, and drain. Aautéing further develops flavor as salt and aromatics begin to fuse with the mushroom. And, the higher heat in the pan can’t hurt the detoxification process.

Looking online, and in books, you will find references to the mushroom being carcinogenic. Or speculating it might be. We eat carcinogenic foods all the time. We walk along roads alongside vehicles spewing poisons in our faces. Toast gets burnt, grilled meat tastes wonderful. Don’t pig out on this, or any other wild mushroom. Enjoy your meal. It is a seasonal treat. Just as you may enjoy grilled meat (a potential carcinogen), enjoy your mushrooms, but do so in moderation.

Here is advice from doctors at the Columbia University Irving Medical Center on “Carcinogens and Moderation.”

“At any stage of your life you can reduce your risk of future cancer,” says Terry. Carcinogens can change your DNA, but your DNA has repair mechanisms working all the time. The fewer repairs these mechanisms have to make, the less chance you’ll get cancer.

“It’s easier for your body to repair damage if your intake and exposure is slower,” says Terry. “So don’t have four alcoholic drinks or four charred burgers at once.”